February 2025

Three months in Buenos Aires (again)

Like I did two years ago, I've spent three enjoyable months in the capital of Argentina. Land of Borges and Cortazar, of Gardel and Piazzolla, of Maradona and Messi. My plan was to relax, and that's precisely what I did.

There's always a battle between two little monsters inside me. I invariably want to jump into a bus and go visit those ruins outside town, or go to several museums in the same day, or walk ten kilometers photographing the landscape. That's my first monster: curiosity. But at the same time I also want to not do any of that and instead stay home on a comfortable couch drinking tea and reading a book, or drinking wine and watching tv, or just playing a computer game. That's my second monster: lazyness. During these nomad years of mine, I've been letting curiosity win most of the skirmishes. But for this summer in Buenos Aires, lazyness was in control.

In my cozy Palermo apartment, I read fourteen books (J.L. Borges again, Philip K. Dick, Samuel Beckett, Julian Barnes, Han Kang, and a bunch of Chinese authors), watched many hours of tv (including rewatching the full eight seasons of House MD), and played the old computer game Darklands again.

I also attended two literature courses at the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA). The first one was Literatura China del Siglo XX, where I learned about many authors I had never heard about (Lu Xun, Ba Jin, Ding Ling, Wang Meng, Wang Xiaobo, Can Xue, among others) and two that I had (Gao Xingjian and Mo Yan, both Nobel Prize winners). The second one was Las Trampas de la Memoria, connecting the works of J.L. Borges with authors like Philip K. Dick, Samuel Beckett, and Julian Barnes).

Yes, that's my idea of a relaxing time.

Why did the geese cross the road?

What? No museums?

Of course I found time to visit (or revisit) museums. The MALBA, my favorite, had exhibitions by Tunga (Brazilian), Cao Fei (Chinese), Frida y Diego (Mexican), plus the usual 220 Latin American works from the permanent collection. At the Museo Sívori I saw contemporary art selected for the 68º Salón de Artes Plásticas Manuel Belgrano, which was pretty interesting. The Museo de Arte Moderno has a good collection of Argentinian moderninsm. The Museo Larreta is the house where Enrique Larreta lived. He was a writer, diplomat, art collector, also famous for having been nominated ten times for the Nobel Prize in Literature and never winning. At the small Museo Casa Carlos Gardel I learned a bit about the voice of Mi Buenos Aires Querido and Por una Cabeza, among many other celebrated tangos. And I always like to go to the Museo Xul Solar and see his works again. He was a close friend of J.L. Borges and had a unique style influenced by surrealism and mystical ideas. He also invented games (like Non-Chess) and languages (like Pan Lingua).

Barreras Melódicas, by Xul Solar

And the food?

The main surprise I got in Argentina was the cost of living. While some things remain inexpensive (wine and transportation, for example) others have gone out of control (food and clothing, for example). The delicious and inexpensive steak dinner I used to have here in the neighborhood for $15 USD is still delicious but now costs $35 USD.

This inflationary scenario forced me to reconsider my food choices. Instead of eating meat in almost every single meal, like I did two years ago, this time I had a much more varied (and affordable) diet. I still devoured the traditional bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), ojo de bife (rib eye), vacío (flank steak), and entraña (skirt steak), but those were special occasions. For the regular meals I went often to restaurants that offer a menu del día (dish of the day) and ate things like carré de cerdo a la criolla (pork shoulder roasted with onions and bell peppers), pechuga al verdeo (grilled chicken breast covered in leek sauce), and albodigas con pure (meatballs with mashed potatoes). All accompanied by Malbec wine, of course.

And after Buenos Aires?

Next week I will move to Willemstadt, capital city of Curaçao.

Bida ta dushi! (That's "life is beautiful" in papiamento, the language spoken in Curaçao.)
 
Copyright © 2025 Nemo Nox, All rights reserved.


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