May 2022

Six Weeks in Bulgaria

Living in Sofia is an interesting experience. Especially because I don't understand Bulgarian. The first challenge is the Cyrillic alphabet. Everything seems to be written in a code that you need to decipher before you can actually know what they are saying. That part I managed to learn. In some occasions you are lucky and, after the deciphering process, find a word that is familiar, like kroazan (croissant) or shokolad (chocolat). But more often than not it's something like shtastliveca (it's the name of a restaurant, it means "The Lucky One"). I've only learned a few words, like praskova (peach) or yagoda (strawberry) or sirene (cheese). Most people here don't speak English. Children now learn English in school, but older folks usually only speak Bulgarian and Russian. If you need some information, find a teenager: they often speak very good English and are eager to help.

My apartment in Sofia is excellent. Very spacious, with large windows and a balcony that opens to a park. In the distance, I can see Vitosha Mountain and its snow-covered peak (even in springtime). I'm in a residential area that also has several restaurants and cafes, a few embassies, and the Bulgarian National Television headquarters. I go for daily walks around the closest parks: Zaimov Park (named after a Russian spy), Doctors' Garden (celebrating medics who died during the Russo-Turkish War), and Knyazheska Garden (which includes a huge Communist-era monument to the Soviet Army).

What about the food?

There's a surprising high number of Italian restaurants in Sofia. And even generic restaurants usually have pasta or pizza in the menu. The other popular option is something that looks like a clone of Hard Rock Cafe: chains like Happy or Ginger, playing very loud techno music and serving burgers, pizzas, sushi rolls, and other internationally flavored dishes. Among all that, it's not easy to find traditional Bulgarian food. I managed to find a couple of places that serve some delicious classics of Bulgarian cuisine. My top choices were an oven baked lamb shank with baked potatoes and a slowly roasted duck leg covered in dough, with aubergine, tomato, garlic, onion and thyme.

And there's also Plovdiv

Plovdiv is the second-largest city in Bulgaria, with a very rich history and more than 200 archaeological sites. After being conquered by Philip II of Macedon (father of Alexander the Great), it got the name of Philippopolis, by which it was known for most of its history. I visited a few of Plovdiv's historical places, including, among other attractions, the Roman Theatre of Philippopolis (built in the 1st century CE), the Stadium of Philippopolis (built in the 2nd century CE), and the fortified walls of Nebet Tepe (built around the 4th century BCE). I also found an interesting restaurant called Hemingway, where I had some memorable pork loin steaks with celery puree and sun-dried tomatoes.

And now what?

Tomorrow I will move to Bucharest, capital of Romania, where I should stay until mid July. La revedere! (That's "goodbye" in Romanian.)

Copyright © 2022 Nemo Nox, All rights reserved.


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